Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Jackson, WY to the Needles

As beautiful as Jackson, WY is and as magnificent as the Tetons are, being there felt like standing outside the circus without a ticket. Anna was recovering from a stomach bug when we were there so we needed to be still for a couple of days.  Also Alex and I figured the Grand Traverse wasn’t exactly something we should submit our kids to. So as painful as it was to be in the Tetons and not play in them, we drove north gazing at them over our shoulder, hoping that we’ll be back another time in the not so distant future.

Fortunately, Yellowstone is only 97 miles north of Jackson and we had a glorious three days there. We couldn’t believe how much snow was still on the ground, but I had also forgotten, despite two previous visits in my early adulthood, how high Yellowstone was. We spent three days at 7000 to 8000 feet of elevation and each morning’s run ended up being a bit of a suck fest. Of course Alex and I were motivated to keep the pace lively and the chit chat even livelier in order to keep the bears fully aware of our presence. We did end up seeing a grizzly mama and cub meandering along the edge of a lake. And when they started heading in the direction of our campsite, I think we had a “personal best” for the last mile and a half.

Yellowstone with its steamy, stinky fumaroles
Patiently waiting for Old Faithful
Worth the wait
Jackson was so psyched to corner a ranger and pummel him with questions.
Beautiful Yellowstone Falls

Anna's expression pretty much sums it up.
Following a quick trip up to Bozeman to the Museum of the Rockies, we headed back down through Wyoming to Cody for a couple of days. There we got to experience a horseback ride and a rodeo, both awesome. Cody is one of those authentic western towns that doesn’t seem to have changed much since the days of Buffalo Bill Cody. The best thing was seeing the kids faces as they watched kids their own age barrel racing and getting thrown from the backs of bucking broncos. It’s just what kids do in Cody, WY…..as natural as fishing or skiing or playing hockey in VT.

Anna on Bruiser, Jackson about to fall off Tornado.
Alex, on Stretch, giggling because he kept staying behind so he could make the horse trot. We were supposed to keep them at a walk. And Alex can't ride so he just bounced up and down on the poor thing.
Anna gettin' ready to chase calves in the rodeo ring.
Trying to catch the dern things. They're quick.

Since we only touched on part of the Dinosaur Trail in Montana, we decided to check out Wyoming Dinosaur Center in Thermopolis, WY where we also got to visit a dig site. Definitely one of the cooler dinosaur-related parts of our trip, we were able to see fossilized rock with footprints of sauropods and the carnivores who ate them. Jackson had his first real lesson in consumerism, however, when he used his own money to purchase what he thought was a real Allosaurus tooth from the museum, only to find out once we were back on the road that it was a replica. It was awful to see how crushed he was, but we thought he learned a good lesson about how to be a discriminating consumer.

Allosaurus footprint

Dig site
Having not climbed since City of Rocks, Alex and I were anxious to get to Devil’s Tower in eastern WY. This place is legendary in terms of its climbing and its Native American history. Unfortunately when we got there, we discovered that climbers had volunteered to abstain from climbing the tower during the month of June out of respect for the Native Americans in the area who felt the Tower was sacred ground.  It was June 27th. Ugh, such a painful decision to drive away and leave the Tower in peace. But knowing we need all the good karma or “Ju Ju”, as Alex calls it, we could get, we felt we were doing the right thing. Once again we added Devil’s Tower to our list of places we must get back to.

Devil's Tower
In contrast to Devil’s Tower, the Needles is one climbing area we can tick off as one that we saw and have no interest in revisiting. After the photo op moment at Mount Rushmore, we wandered around the Needles for a full day looking for something we wanted to climb. But the place ended up looking like one big boulder problem with grovel-y climbing and very little protection. So the Needles felt like salt in our wounds after passing on Devil’s Tower, especially with the knowledge that the Black Hills of South Dakota were the last place that offered anything vertical for a thousand miles.


Vermonters at Mt. Rushmore

.......and a Buckeye
Alex frustrated at the Needles, nose in the guidebook.

Scrambling around the Needles. Eye of the Needle is behind Anna.
Fortunately, for me, I was heading into my beloved Midwest for some family time and a walk or two down memory lane. I just had to talk Alex down off the ledge in the hopes of convincing him that he would climb again and he might even enjoy the Midwest in the meantime.

Thursday, July 7, 2011

Grand Canyon, Zion, South Lake Tahoe, Redwood Forest, Crater Lake, Smith Rock, City of Rocks, Jackson, Yellowstone, Cody, Thermopolis, Devil’s Tower, Mt. Rushmore, the Needles……..whew!

I realize looking at my list how long it’s been since I’ve taken the time to write. We’ve covered a lot of ground in the last 3-4 weeks and I think we’re all actually looking forward to wrapping up our trip and heading home.

Our first week back with Alex consisted of a less than impressive visit to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon (meaning the South Rim is definitely more awe inspiring) and a fantastic couple of days in Zion National Park.
Alex freaking himself out with no rope.

Alex was so tired after being on the mountain. Anna was massaging his head with a stick.

So happy to have Dad back.

Zion NP

One of the few multipitch climbs we were able to do with the kids.
My sister and I had been trying to figure out a good place to meet in northern California and we decided to skip Yosemite (a total zoo in the month of June) and King’s Canyon which was still getting snow and cold temperatures. So upon the brilliant, albeit lucky, advice of my brother-in-law, James, we settled on South Lake Tahoe. Tahoe was the perfect culmination of sun, climbing, hiking and beach-going. Alex and James were able to climb and my sister and I had some quality time both with and without the kids. And most importantly I was able to love on my niece, Hazel to my heart’s content. There’s just something about your sister’s kid that has a hold on your heart like nothing else. It also helps that Hazel is saucy and hilarious and as articulate a two year old as I have ever heard.

James, Hazel and Annie in South Lake Tahoe.

Love this kid 
Hazel by the lake

After the typical tearful goodbye between sisters living on opposite ends of the continent, we headed to the Redwood Forest, upon Anna’s request. I figured it was somewhat compulsory given that we skipped the Sequoias. The trees were big and beautiful, but we had the most fun camping right on the beach. Now, I’m not one to be an alarmist. I tend to blow off warnings of natural disasters that may affect whatever area I’m in. But the tsunami warnings at our beach campsite gave me some serious heebee geebees, and after one restless night, I was ready to head to higher ground.

Campsite right on the beach

Our Crater Lake visit was brief due to record snowfall this year and continued road closures. So, much to Alex’s delight, we headed to Smith Rock near Bend, OR for a few days of cragging. I must say, Smith was one of my favorite places on this trip. Super family friendly, lots to offer climbers and just a great vibe. Climbers are generally cool people to chat with and Smith is like the Disneyland of climbing. It was here that we were able to see lots of families, just like us, with small kids all having a great time climbing with Mom and Dad. The approach was simple and it was just climb after climb after climb. Everyone was happy. Anna was able to climb all the way to the top to the rap rings on her own for the first time and her smile lasted all day.

Teaching J-man how to tie in at Smith Rock

Anna.....all smiles on this one!
While we were at Smith Rock, we were talking to a lot of people who planned on heading to City of Rocks from Oregon. Neither Alex nor I had heard of this place so we pointed our wheels in the direction of southeast Idaho. When we got there it was better than Christmas morning. We found an area full of granite that was a lot like Joshua Tree, but even more remote and a lot cooler.

City of Rocks, lots of sticky beautiful granite

It's been an awesome month, needless to say. To be continued...........